『Force of Nature』のカバーアート

Force of Nature

Mind, Body, Soul, and, of Course, Surfing

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Force of Nature

著者: Laird Hamilton
ナレーター: Michael Butler Murray
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このコンテンツについて

Laird Hamilton has been hailed as the world's greatest big-wave surfer. His first book, Force of Nature, allows listeners a rare glimpse inside the unique philosophy that has created his circumstances, and not the other way around. After all, this is a man whose biological father abandoned him shortly after he was born; whose first job was working on a pig farm; who dropped out of school in 11th grade. And then the career decision: surfer. Though earning enough to pay the rent as any kind of surfer is next to impossible, Hamilton has ended up in the place we all desire to be: doing exactly what he loves, becoming the world's best in the process, making a great living, being surrounded by nature and family, and radiating peak health and fitness.

How did he get there? And, more importantly, how can the rest of us join him?

Force of Nature is a detailed map to that destination, with Laird Hamilton as the listener's guide. It's not about chasing trophies or accolades or cash. It's about quality over quantity, soul, and being true to your physical, mental, and spiritual roots. Not only is it possible to thrive in the modern world without adopting its harmful habits, it's essential. And not only has Hamilton mastered this balance, he makes a compelling and articulate case that anyone who wants to can do the same.

©2008 Laird Hamilton (P)2019 Tantor
サーフィン・ウインドサーフィン・水上スキー スポーツ 個人的成功 衛生・健康的な生活

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