• Laird Hamilton

  • 2019/05/23
  • 再生時間： 32 分
  • ポッドキャスト

Laird Hamilton

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  • Revolutionary surfer, author and model Laird Hamilton shares the lessons he says he’s learned from surfing with passion, enthusiasm and a sense of wonder. Laird is a veteran big-wave surfer who elevated the sport to an art form. He has risked his life to surf the biggest waves in existence, some that are more than 80 feet tall and move 50 miles per hour. Laird describes the first time he rode a giant wave as a mystical experience that inspired in him a fearless awe. Laird shares why he sees the ocean as a teacher: its power connects him with his spirituality and the waves teach him how to stand proudly and how to fall with grace.
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あらすじ・解説

Revolutionary surfer, author and model Laird Hamilton shares the lessons he says he’s learned from surfing with passion, enthusiasm and a sense of wonder. Laird is a veteran big-wave surfer who elevated the sport to an art form. He has risked his life to surf the biggest waves in existence, some that are more than 80 feet tall and move 50 miles per hour. Laird describes the first time he rode a giant wave as a mystical experience that inspired in him a fearless awe. Laird shares why he sees the ocean as a teacher: its power connects him with his spirituality and the waves teach him how to stand proudly and how to fall with grace.
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