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サマリー
あらすじ・解説
João de Macedo is a big wave surfer. After decades riding the biggest, most dangerous waves he faced a terrible slump. Mired in negative self-talk, his career almost came to a halt. Learn how 42 year-old João persevered and stayed on top, despite fundamental changes in his sport. To get a free 7-day trial and 25% off, visit blinkist.com/som