エピソード

  • 327: What do Famille Perrin, Torres and Gaja Wines Have in Common that Makes Them Uncommon? Fiona Morrison Goes Behind the Scenes of These Family Businesses

    327: What do Famille Perrin, Torres and Gaja Wines Have in Common that Makes Them Uncommon? Fiona Morrison Goes Behind the Scenes of These Family Businesses
    2025/03/05

    What is unique about Famille Perrin in France's approach to running their family wine business? How do traditional wine families differentiate their brands and market their wines in a crowded marketplace? How has the Gaja family of Italy made significant contributions to winemaking and the Piemonte community? What is unique about Famille Perrin in France's approach to running their family wine business?

    In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Fiona Morrison.

    You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks

    Giveaway

    Two of you are going to win a copy of her terrific book, 10 Great Wine Families: A Tour Through Europe. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!

    Highlights

    How did the Frescobaldi family make a massive impact on the arts in their transition from banking to wine?

    What were the Frescobaldi family's connections to famous figures like Dante Alighieri and Galileo?

    How has Angelo Gaja and the Gaja family made significant contributions to winemaking and the Piemonte community?

    Why is the Liger-Belair family’s vineyard often known as the greatest in the world?

    What is unique about the Famille Perrin's approach to running their family wine business?

    How has Álvaro Palacios proven Garnacha’s place as the climate change grape?

    How do traditional wine families differentiate their brands and market their wines in a crowded marketplace?

    Do these families view their wines as luxury goods?

    Key Takeaways

    How do traditional wine families differentiate their brands and market their wines in a crowded marketplace?

    Simplicity and being true to their roots are two key factors Fiona points out. The labels have become much cleaner and are much more sober these days than they were in the past. The Torres family of Spain have done huge amounts on climate change and carbon neutrality and regeneration. In fact, they are, once again, this year, the most admired wine brand. I think it's very important to show that you're paying your dues and you're doing research. It shows how much they are rooted in their heritage and their history.

    How has the Gaja family of Italy made significant contributions to winemaking and the Piemonte community?

    If you want to go and taste a Gaja, you need to make a contribution of 300 euros to their various charities they support. Piemonte is still quite a poor region, and so they want to give back to the community and to the area what they can. Of course, people who drink Gaya wines, which are very expensive, can afford to give a charity donation. It's quite unusual, but I think it's a good solution for them.

    What is unique about Famille Perrin in France's approach to running their family wine business?

    There are seven or eight children from the two brothers, Francois and Jean Pierre. Every single one of them has a job in the winery, with each handling a different aspect of the business. This solidarity between so many children, working together, laughing together, tasting together. This is a blueprint for how to run a family business.

    About Fiona Morrison MW

    Fiona Morrison is an international Master of Wine, author, writer and wine merchant who lives in Belgium and Bordeaux and holds both British and Belgian nationalities. She became a Master of Wine in 1994 after studying in America and France. Fiona is married to Jacques Thienpont of Le Pin and currently runs the Thienpont family wine merchant business in Belgium and France. The family owns three estates on Bordeaux's right bank: Le Pin (Pomerol), L'IF (St Emilion) and L'Hêtre (Castillon). Winner of several awards for her writing, including the James Beard Award, her latest book, "10 Great Wine Families", has been published internationally.

    To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/327.
    続きを読む 一部表示
    42 分
  • 326: Who Are The 10 Great Families of Wine? Fiona Morrison Gives Us A Tour Through Europe

    326: Who Are The 10 Great Families of Wine? Fiona Morrison Gives Us A Tour Through Europe
    2025/02/26
    How do you tame a grape like Merlot which actually has higher sugar and alcohol levels than Cabernet Sauvignon? What’s the little-known history behind the cult wines of Le Pin in Bordeaux that sell for as much as $10,000 a bottle when first released and then go up from there at auction? Why is it an advantage to have many stakeholders in family-owned estates? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Fiona Morrison, author of the terrific book 10 Great Wine Families: A Tour Through Europe. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of her terrific book, 10 Great Wine Families: A Tour Through Europe. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! Highlights How did studying literature at the University of Exeter spark Fiona’s interest in the wine industry? How did Fiona meet her husband, Jacques Thienpont of Le Pin? What’s the history behind the renowned Le Pin wines? How would Fiona characterize the 2023 and 2024 vintages of Le Pin? What is it like managing the limited production and high prices of Le Pin? How Le Pin tames Merlot grapes into its highly sought-after wines? What were the challenges Fiona faced in writing about the Thienpont family of which she is a part? How does Fiona's book, 10 Great Wine Families, differ from other books on similar topics? Which aspects of Maurice Healy’s book, Stay With Me Flagons, inspired Fiona’s writing? What are some of the elements that characterize successful multi-generational wine businesses? How did Fiona choose which ten families to profile in her book? Key Takeaways How do you tame a grape like Merlot which actually has higher sugar and alcohol levels than Cabernet Sauvignon? Merlot is a grape that can be very fleshy, Fiona observes. It doesn't like hot weather. It likes to keep its feet wet. If you shade the fruit a bit and let the grapes ripen, this dappled light effect, then you get a lovely balance, and elegant wine. But if you crop strongly and take off the leaves, the wine can get quite vulgar quickly, very sugary, much more jammy. There's much more sugar and alcohol in Merlot than there is in Cabernet, which may surprise some people. So when we tame Merlot, what we do in the cellar is very little pumping over. We use infusions rather than pumping over and soaking the grapes to get the maceration, like when you’ve got your tea bag in your tea. You have to wet the cap so that it doesn't get dry and tannic. But you're just doing that. You're not punching down or anything like that. What’s the little-known history behind the cult wines of Le Pin in Bordeaux that sell for as much as $10,000 a bottle when first released, then go up from there at auction? As Fiona explains, Le Pin means pine tree. The estate was called Chateau du Pin before Jacques bought it in 1979. It's a fairy tale story. He had heard from his uncle, who had their sister estate, Vieux Chateau Certan, that a magical one hectare of land was coming up for sale. And the family thought it was too expensive to buy, so Jacques, who wasn't married at the time, said, well, one hectare, it's a vegetable garden, I think I can manage that myself. He started off very modestly with a barrel borrowed here, a tank borrowed there, and very artisanal winemaking. Then all hell broke loose in a good way with the release of the 1982 vintage which was tasted by top US expert Robert Parker and it became one of Parker's first 100 point wines. And the rest is history. Why is it an advantage to have many stakeholders in family-owned estates? Fiona notes that much of the book is about how you resolve family conflicts in a business and how you prepare the next generation to take over. She says that having lots of shareholders is actually easier than having just one or two heirs, who face a lot of pressure to take over in the business when in fact they may not want to. Whereas, if you've got 120 shareholders, chances are there's at least a few that are actually interested in wine, and will go into it. Lamberto Frescobaldi, who is 30th generation of his family, has instituted a very strict qualifying process for anyone who wants to come into the business. They have to be wine lovers, university-educated and have some business and wine experience. So you can't just be to the manor born. You really do need to have paid your dues before you get into this business. It's not a privileged business. It's probably one of the most complicated businesses, and it's very easy to lose money and it's quite difficult to make money. About Fiona Morrison MW Fiona Morrison is an international Master of Wine, author, writer and wine merchant who lives in Belgium and Bordeaux and holds both British and Belgian nationalities. She became a Master...
    続きを読む 一部表示
    50 分
  • 325: Why is the Languedoc a Hotbed of Experimentation? Rosemary George Reveals What This Means for the Wines You Drink

    325: Why is the Languedoc a Hotbed of Experimentation? Rosemary George Reveals What This Means for the Wines You Drink
    2025/02/19
    Introduction

    Why is the Languedoc a hotbed of experimentation, and what does that mean for the wines you drink? What role have white and rosé wines played in the transformation of the Languedoc wine scene? What prompted the shift from mass-produced table wines to higher-quality appellation wines in Languedoc?

    In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with author Rosemary George.

    You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks

    Giveaway

    Two of you are going to win a copy of her terrific book, Wines of the Languedoc. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!

    Highlights

    How did the Languedoc’s appellations come to be and why were they relatively late to the game?

    Why is ​the Languedoc a hotbed of experimentation, and what does that mean for the wines you drink?

    How did the monastic houses contribute to winemaking in the Languedoc region?

    What is the historical significance of the Canal du Midi?

    Which Languedoc food and wine pairings should you try?

    What role have white and Rosé wines played in the transformation of the Languedoc wine scene?

    What prompted the shift from mass-produced table wines to higher-quality appellation wines in Languedoc?

    How has the introduction of clay amphorae and concrete eggs influenced Languedoc winemaking?

    What changes does Rosemary expect to see in the region over the next 5-10 years?

    How can you make the most out of a visit to the Languedoc region?

    Which Languedoc wine would Rosemary pair with her favourite childhood food, baked beans?

    Why would Rosemary love to be able to share a bottle of wine with author Jane Austen?

    Key Takeaways

    As Rosemary explains, the Languedoc has far fewer rules and higher yields than other appellations or regions in France. People who don't want to conform to the rules can try different grape varieties. They also have the broad designation of Vin de France that allows for just about anything you want to do. It's the reputation of your name that sells your wine. She believes that Vin de France in the Languedoc from a grove with a certain reputation is going to be interesting. You may not like it, but there will be a reason why it's not conforming, for whatever reason. So that's interesting.

    Rosemary observes that the Languedoc produces twice as much Rosé as Provence. It's a large area, whereas Provence is quite small in comparison. Provence tends to produce very pale roses, and those specializing in rosé are quite special. White wines originally weren't important in the Languedoc, and the early appellations were red. But regions like Saint-Chinian and Faugères now produce white white wines in designated areas that weren’t recognized until 2004.

    Rosemary believes that it was probably the falling consumption of wine in France that prompted higher quality wines. When France used to drink a phenomenal amount of wine per capita, wine was produced by cooperatives aiming at bulk production. However, growers leaving the cooperatives want to do something more individual. They recognized they had some really good vineyard land. Some of the pioneers of quality included Gerard Bertrand, who started aging wine in barrels. That sort of snowballed. Newcomers are attracted to the area because land prices are not that expensive so you can buy vineyards. You can't do that in Chablis.

    About Rosemary George MW

    Rosemary George has been in the wine industry for 52 years. She passed the prestigious Master of Wine exam in 1979, making her one of the first female MWs in the world. In 1981, she started writing about wine as a freelancer and has subsequently authored fourteen books, including those on New Zealand, Tuscany, Chablis, Faugeres, the Languedoc and Roussillon.

    To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/325.
    続きを読む 一部表示
    32 分
  • 324: Why are Languedoc Wines Capturing Worldwide Attention? Rosemary George Tells the Story

    324: Why are Languedoc Wines Capturing Worldwide Attention? Rosemary George Tells the Story
    2025/02/12

    What makes the Languedoc particularly well-suited for organic viticulture? How have the wines of the Languedoc evolved since the 70s? How do the wines of the Languedoc region of southern France differ from neighbouring Roussillon?

    In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Rosemary George

    You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks

    Giveaway

    Two of you are going to win a copy of her terrific book, Wines of the Languedoc. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!

    Highlights

    What was it like becoming one of the first women to earn the Master of Wine designation?

    How did Rosemary’s journey into wine writing begin?

    What inspired Rosemary's initial fascination with the Languedoc region?

    What do you need to know about the Languedoc region in terms of geography and how it fits into the bigger picture of French wine?

    Why is the Languedoc particularly well suited to organic viticulture?

    How does Rosemary’s book, Wines of the Languedoc, compare to other books about the region?

    What are the classic grape varieties and wines of the Languedoc?

    How does the Garrigue influence Languedoc wines?

    How does the Languedoc's maritime climate compare to other wine regions in France?

    What are the key distinctions between the Languedoc and Roussillon regions?

    Who are some of the more interesting winemakers that Rosemary has met in the Languedoc?

    How are Languedoc winemakers responding to new challenges due to climate change?

    Key Takeaways

    As Rosemary notes, the Languedoc has a lot of advantages for organic viticulture, especially the winds. So if it rains, the winds dry everything up pretty quickly. Rot is not usually a problem in the Languedoc. She adds that vintages are becoming more irregular than they were, but certainly it's a lot easier to be organic in the Languedoc than it is in say Chablis.

    In the Languedoc, for red wine, Rosemary says, you have Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault. Syrah and Mourvèdre were grape varieties that were planted in the 70s, 80s. It’s what they called the cépages améliorateurs, the improving grape varieties. It was thought the Carignan needed to have something else added to it. Now, I think there's a trend. People realize how good Carignan is, especially with climate change coming into effect. It will make some really good wine. There's a bit of spice, bit of red fruit, there's a bit of freshness, there's some acidity and as well as tannin.

    The Languedoc region of southern France and neighbouring Roussillon are completely different, Rosemary observes, because Roussillon was part of Spain until the Treaty of the Pyrenees. They see themselves as Northern Catalonia. The Pyrenees for Roussillon is a unifying thing, and it does not divide them from Spain, it unites them. Whereas Languedoc speaks Occitan, and it has a different history. And the wine makes them different because the key grape variety of Roussillon is Grenache, and that was also used for Vin Doux Naturel, fortified wines that like Banyuls and Maury and Rivesaltes. They're matured in barrel and last for for years. One of the great wines in the world and totally underappreciated. The Languedoc doesn't have that tradition to the same extent.

    About Rosemary George MW

    Rosemary George has been in the wine industry for 52 years. She passed the prestigious Master of Wine exam in 1979, making her one of the first female MWs in the world. In 1981, she started writing about wine as a freelancer and has subsequently authored fourteen books, including those on New Zealand, Tuscany, Chablis, Faugeres, the Languedoc and Roussillon.

    To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/324.
    続きを読む 一部表示
    33 分
  • 323: Why Did Greece Have the First Sommeliers, Wine Tastings and Writers? Konstantinos Lazarakis Reveals the Answers

    323: Why Did Greece Have the First Sommeliers, Wine Tastings and Writers? Konstantinos Lazarakis Reveals the Answers
    2025/02/05

    What are some of the significant contributions that Greece has made to the world of wine? How does the Greek volcanic island of Santorini produce wines of stunning depth and freshness at the same time? How are Greek wines shifting the perspective on what’s possible for warm climate wines?

    In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Master of Wine Konstantinos Lazarakis.

    You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks

    Giveaway

    Two of you are going to win a copy of his terrific book, The Wines of Greece. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!

    Highlights

    What are some of the significant contributions to wine made in Greece?

    What are some of the unique and complex terroirs found in Greece for wine production?

    How do Santorini's wines achieve both incredible depth and freshness?

    What are the hallmark characteristics of Assyrtiko grapes, and how does the wine pair with food?

    How does the tasting experience of Moschofilero compare with that of Assyrtiko?

    What should you know about Greece’s flagship red grapes, Agiorgitiko and Xinomavro?

    Which regions are a must-try in your exploration of Greek wines?

    How was Retsina developed, and why does Konstantinos think it’s one of the greatest hopes for the Greek wine industry?

    How did the Greek financial crisis impact and improve the Greek wine industry?

    What are some of the opportunities and challenges in the future of Greek wines?

    Key Takeaways

    As Konstantinos observes, Greece was not the first to make wine or even the first to have a God that is dedicated to wine, but we did a lot of things for the first time: the first appellations or regions, sommeliers, wine writers and tastings. For the Greek symposia, the whole format of consuming wine was essential in making sure that symposia were an amazing celebration of the human intellect, and the bringing together of ideas.

    Konstantinos explains that because Santorini is a volcanic island it has a young soil that’s coarse. The vines grow on their own roots, but above ground, it's very windy, extremely hot, so the vines have to kept low on ground to capture a little humidity and be protected from the wind. They trained these vines as baskets by weaving the vine canes over years. Everything that is on the periphery is torn apart by the wind, but then you have only the middle that survives. Every about 30-40 years, the basket gets too bulky, so it's chopped apart and a new cane from the old root system starts a new basket. The root system is four hundred years old. For context, he adds, four centuries ago, Bordeaux was a swamp.

    Konstantinos says that many people believe that a cool climate wine is superior to a warm climate one. But warm climates can produce amazing wines. Greece has a lot of places that are cold, even more so than the Loire Valley in France. Over the years, the Greeks selected grapes with full flavors at lower levels of alcohol.

    About Konstantinos Lazarakis MW

    Konstantinos Lazarakis MW is the first person in Greece to have passed the notoriously difficult Master of Wine exams. He is the author of Wines of Greece, published by Academie du Vin. As well, he serves as the President of Wines & Spirits Professional Center, General Manager of Aiolos Wines and CEO of Wine Wonders.

    Bonus Interview Highlights – Matt Cauz

    How do I distinguish between sexist, sexy, and sexual writing?

    What are some strategies you can try to avoid using wine as a coping mechanism?

    What trends are emerging around generational differences in wine consumption?

    Why is it important for us to vote with our dollars when it comes to producers accused of misconduct?

    What are the best wine pairings for different types of chocolate and holiday dinners and celebrations

    To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/323.
    続きを読む 一部表示
    1 時間 11 分
  • 322: What are the Surprising Wines and Regions of Greece? Konstantinos Lazarakis Shares His Favourites

    322: What are the Surprising Wines and Regions of Greece? Konstantinos Lazarakis Shares His Favourites
    2025/01/29

    What makes wine worth waiting for? How much wine is produced in Greece? What would surprise you about the wines of Greece.

    In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Konstantinos Lazarakis, author of the new book The Wines of Greece.

    You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks

    Giveaway

    Two of you are going to win a copy of his terrific book, The Wines of Greece. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!

    Highlights

    How did Konstantinos find his first passion for heavy metal music?

    Do fine wine and heavy metal have anything in common?

    What memorable moment happened to Konstantinos while delivering a presentation to wine buyers in Russia?

    How did Dominus wine end up making an in-flight splash for Konstantinos?

    What sparked Konstantinos’ initial passion for Greek wine?

    Why did Konstantinos want to become a Master of Wine when no others were in Greece?

    Where can you find Greece on the map and what are the key geographic features?

    How much wine does Greece produce annually?

    What unexpected insight did Konstantinos discover while writing his book on Greek wines?

    What might surprise you about the dynamic nature of Greek wines and winemaking?

    What does it mean for Greece to have a large number of endemic grape varieties?

    Key Takeaways

    As Konstantinos observes, when you're a fan of Barolo, or since we're talking about wines of Greece in here, Xinomavro, then these wines are not immediately appealing but hugely rewarding once you pay attention to them and calibrate your idea about what wine can be. Looking beyond the instant is rewarding.

    Konstantinos says that many people, even wine professionals, have widely different expectations of what Greek wine is. Some are surprised that Greece is producing any wine at all and others believe that Greek wine is a commodity produced in bulk. But the Bordeaux region of France produces twice the wine that the entire country of Greece produces.

    Konstantinos explains that the great thing about Greek wine is that we have no idea what Greek wine is all about. New grape varieties and regions emerge regularly. For example, Malagousia is a grape variety produced by about 200 vineyards. It is extremely forthcoming yet very complex and intense. On the nose, it can range from Muscatine to minty to tropically. On the palate, it’s quite round, even creamy, without the need of extended lees contact or oak, but still, it has amazing freshness. One of the most important Greek grape varieties has been around for only 30, 40, years. That’s bound to happen again and again. In Italy, almost every area that can make wine does or is verified. They have all their grape varieties identified.

    About Konstantinos Lazarakis MW

    Konstantinos Lazarakis MW is the first person in Greece to have passed the notoriously difficult Master of Wine exams. He is the author of Wines of Greece, published by Academie du Vin. As well, he serves as the President of Wines & Spirits Professional Center, General Manager of Aiolos Wines and CEO of Wine Wonders.

    Bonus Interview – Matt Cauz Highlights

    Which wine should you pair with artichokes?

    What inspired me to write Wine Witch on Fire?

    How did the events of 2012 kick off my no good, terrible, very bad, vintage, personally and professionally?

    Have there been any lasting effects from these traumatic events?

    How has the Canadian wine industry evolved over the past 20 years?

    What are my thoughts on the current state of the wine review industry?

    To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/322.
    続きを読む 一部表示
    1 時間 15 分
  • 321: Why is Chardonnay the Winemaker's Grape + What a Family Brand Means with Chris Benziger

    321: Why is Chardonnay the Winemaker's Grape + What a Family Brand Means with Chris Benziger
    2025/01/22

    Why is Chardonnay the one grape that is equally made in the vineyards and the winery? What’s the difference between biodynamic and regenerative farming? What does it mean to be part of a family brand of wine?

    In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Chris Benziger, winemaker with the Benziger family wines in Sonoma, California.

    You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks

    Giveaway

    Three of you will win one of three bottles of the superb Benziger wines. This is open to Canadian residents because shipping alcohol across borders is still bound-up with prehistoric laws. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose three people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!

    Highlights

    How does the Benziger family’s "flaming hoops" program help to ensure family members are a value add if they work at the winery?

    How did the 2017 Sonoma County wildfires impact the Benziger Family Winery?

    Which features can you expect from Benziger California Chardonnay, and how does it best pair with food?

    What makes the Benziger Running Wild Chardonnay unique and more personal for Chris?

    What is the concept of regenerative farming, and how does it relate to biodynamics?

    Why is the Benziger Tribute so versatile, and what’s the story behind the name?

    What does it mean to Chris to be part of a family brand of wine?

    In the Museum of Chris Benziger, what three objects would be in the central display?

    If Chris could share a bottle of wine with anyone outside the wine industry, who would that be?

    Key Takeaways

    Chris observes that most grapes or varietals are made in the vineyard. With Chardonnay, you can choose whether it’ll be a beautiful, unoaked, austere, minerally Chablis-style, or a big butter kiss, butter bomb, or anything in between. The Renziger Chardonnay is right in the middle of the teeter-totter.

    Biodynamic has some baggage to it, whereas regenerative farming takes the farming part of biodynamics, which is incredible. Organic farming is simply the elimination of chemical inputs. All it does is replace all that biological capital back into the soil. So the land never goes fallow. It's constantly being fed back. Farming is resource intensive. Regenerative farming means giving back so the land is not just restored, it’s better than before the farming started.

    What does it mean to be part of a family brand of wine?

    Chris calls critter brands and concept brands that are developed by market research whiteboard wines. A family brand is inherently tied to a family and its name. Chris notes that his father burned the boats in the Roman tradition so to speak when he sold his business and uprooted his family and traveled 3,000 miles to start the winery. In developing the winery, all they had was each other and had to lean on each other through all the challenges from tough finances to wildfire. But they stayed together and as Chris notes, he was hosting Christmas dinner with 50 family members this year.

    About Chris Benziger

    Chris Benziger was still in high school when he and his family moved from White Plains, New York, to California wine country. He went on to earn a degree in marketing from the University of San Francisco, while spending summers, weekends and every spare moment working at the winery as a child laborer. He officially, he officially joined the Benziger family winery in 1993 Chris oversees the home ranch and is dedicated to the thriving biodynamic ecosystem of the estate, shepherding the Benziger flock of sheep, tending to the estate vegetables and fruit trees, and producing biodynamic preparations for his vineyards.

    To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/321.
    続きを読む 一部表示
    41 分
  • 320: Pioneer California Biodynamic Winemaking + 100 Adorable Sheep with Chris Benziger

    320: Pioneer California Biodynamic Winemaking + 100 Adorable Sheep with Chris Benziger
    2025/01/15

    What was it like to move to biodynamic wine farming at a time when hardly anyone was doing it? What crucial role do 100 adorable sheep play at the Benziger winery? How do biodynamic preparations that might seem a bit “woo” actually benefit the vineyard? What are the benefits of biodynamic farming practices for vine health and wine quality?

    In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Chris Benziger, winemaker with the Benziger family wines in Sonoma, California.

    You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks

    Giveaway

    Three of you will win one of three bottles of the superb Benziger wines. This is open to Canadian residents because shipping alcohol across borders is still bound-up with prehistoric laws. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose three people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!

    Highlights

    How did Chris’ grandfather transform his alcohol-importing business during Prohibition?

    How did the Benziger Family Winery get started?

    What does Chris love about the Benziger family property, and what fascinating history does it have?

    How does the geology of the area influence Benziger wines?

    What challenges did the Benziger family face during their first harvest at the new winery?

    Why did the Benziger family transition to biodynamic farming practices years ahead of mainstream sustainability trends?

    What crucial role do Dorper sheep and Highland cattle play at the Benziger winery?

    How do biodynamic preparations that seem “woo” benefit the vineyard?

    What are the benefits of biodynamic farming practices for vine health and wine quality?

    Key Takeaways

    The Benzigers were biodynamic pioneers in California. He quotes Gandhi: “First they ignored him, then they laughed at him, then they fought him, but then he won.” Today, in every single winery, particularly in Sonoma, Napa, Mendocino, Monterrey, and the counties that have very high prestige, every one of these wineries has some form of a sustainability program today.

    The Benziger family eventually realized that sheep were the answer to their challenges. They got a big flock of a special type of sheep called a Dorper. Their little cloven hoofs push debris down, like leaves, eliminating mildew pressure, so no mildecides. They eat the grasses underneath the vine, eliminating the need for herbicides like RoundUp. And they fertilize as they go which helps with microbial growth.

    Chris says that even though it sounds odd to be putting cow dung in a horn and burying it in the ground, they're making a plant probiotic. That manure attracts microorganisms in the soil, and they're just small enough that they can fit through a cow horn. This is unbelievably healthy for the plants.

    In conventional farming, you water and feed the plant from the top. You're delivering everything at the surface so the roots stay at the surface. Biodynamics tells the vine, Hey, you’ve got to earn a living. We don't water or fertilize it. Now the roots do what they want to do, and go down into those different layers, find their own sources of moisture and nutrition, and that's how we get a better, more terroir-driven wine.

    About Chris Benziger

    Chris Benziger was still in high school when he and his family moved from White Plains, New York, to California wine country. He went on to earn a degree in marketing from the University of San Francisco, while spending summers, weekends and every spare moment working at the winery as a child laborer. He officially, he officially joined the Benziger family winery in 1993 Chris oversees the home ranch and is dedicated to the thriving biodynamic ecosystem of the estate, shepherding the Benziger flock of sheep, tending to the estate vegetables and fruit trees, and producing biodynamic preparations for his vineyards.

    To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/320.
    続きを読む 一部表示
    47 分