Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is the third episode of the "Everything SPI" series. And yes I'm your host Ting Ting from sunny Las Vegas. Today we have a guest from the AMGA office, Andrew Megas-Russell. Andrew is the AMGA Climbing Instructor Program Manager. He oversees the Single Pitch and Climbing Wall Instructor Programs.

The main topic of the episode was the new evaluation system. We talked about the background of transitioning from the old system to the new system and what the AMGA is trying to accomplish with the new system. We looked at the new scoring system and what factors would impact the score. We discussed how the new system has been received by the providers and candidates, etc. We also talked about other general topics such as high standard versus minimum standard, continuing future improvements on the SPI program, interesting stats, and exciting upcoming changes.

Links:

Official AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Page

SPI Program handbook

EP 20 Everything SPI 01 Professionalism & Risk Management

EP 29 Everything SPI 02 Site Selection & Group Management

Andrew Megas-Russell Instagram https://www.instagram.com/megas_sends/

What We Talked About

• Andrew's role in AMGA. Why is he relevant to SPI programs
• From the old eval system to the new eval system
• Overview of the new system and major improvements of the new system
• How to interpret the score? Addition? Subtraction?
• How do SPI providers and SPI candidates feel about the new scoring system?
• What's a strong written evaluation?
• The different roles played by the post exam debrief and written evaluation
• Is there an appeal process?
• Is it appropriate to say that SPI is an entry-level course?
• Are there too many SPIs out there?
• Interesting stats

Show Notes:

Jo’s Links:

• Ladies Weekend Out (website)
• Golden State Guiding (website)
• Jo’s instagram : www.instagram.com/jessielyse
• Jo’s Jess of All Trades Instagram: www.instagram.com/madebyjessofalltrades

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting, and I have been teaching and guiding in Pacific Northwest for the past month. I know you all have been waiting for another episode and I finally had a few rest days to edit this one out and present it to you!

Today’s guest is Jessica Olson. She often goes by her initials Jo. Born and raised in Southern California, Jo grew up traveling with her family and growing an appreciation for the outdoors. She was introduced to climbing through some college friends, and has been growing in the industry for over a decade. In 2016, Jo took an SPI Course and became a Single Pitch Instructor, where she went to work a summer in Alaska before moving to the PNW to grow more as a Rock Guide. She is now based in Bishop, CA, is an Apprentice Rock and Alpine Guide, and runs the Ladies Weekend Out programs, facilitated through Golden State Guiding. These programs focus on gathering like minded women to learn foundational skills in setting oneself up for the adventures ahead.

I met Jo when I worked with her at one of the Ladies Weekend Out events in Red Rock this past spring. I was impressed by her enthusiasm, the way she connected with the group of women, and her philosophy of giving climbing instruction! During the interview, I had so much fun. Jo was a good story teller and had a great sense of humor. She is also a handyperson, and runs a side gig called Jess of All Trades! Now please enjoy the show.

Things We Talked about:

• Jo’s backstories – managing horses, youth climbing coach, outdoor guides, handyperson
• Transition from gym to outdoors – the initial goal to becoming a guide
• Inspired by great mentors – learned the philosophy of climbing instruction
• Facing the reality, insurance?
• A summer in Alaska
• From CA to AK to PNW to van
• Ladies Weekend Out (LWO) programs and events
• Jo’s roles in LWO
• Why do many women keep coming back to LWO?
• Jo’s passion project – mentormovement
• What kind of mentorship ideas? Any structure?
• How to make passion projects sustainable to avoid burn-outs?
• Mentor Movement within LWO?
• Needed help and encouraged guides of LWO to collaborate organically.

Show Notes:

Mercedes’s Links:

• YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@MercedesPollmeier
• Website: https://www.modusathletica.com/
• Modus Cafe Podcast: https://www.modusathletica.com/podcasts/modus-cafe-conversations-beyond-climbing
• Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/
• Simple Strength book: https://amzn.to/3LppunK
• Peak Nutrition Book: https://amzn.to/3zJIWch

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday and welcome to another fantastic episode. I’m your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas and today’s guest is Mercedes Pollmeier. I got in contact with her because we’re both connected to the organization Climbers of Color. She offers classes to teach people on how to boulder outside safely and also helps them with their performance goals.

Mercedes is a seasoned climbing coach and founder of Modus Athletica. She has a Master’s Degree in Human Movement and Sports Conditioning and holds certifications in NSCA strength and conditioning, Precision Nutrition, and GMB training. She is also a former semi-pro tennis player and competition climber.

Her approach to coaching is grounded in experience and fueled by a commitment to fostering a vibrant community culture within Modus Athletica. She believes that climbing is more than just a physical challenge; it’s an enriching journey that reveals our true potential, thus she offers a holistic approach to climbing training that prioritizes longevity, health, and personal growth.

I had so much fun interviewing Mercedes. I got to ask many questions about guiding bouldering and explored many aspects on learning and teaching movements. I even got to ask some self-serving questions about how to train when my guiding schedule gets crazily packed. Mercedes really cares about what she does and invests deeply in things she is passionate about. If you are a climber who is looking to enhance your performance while nurturing your well-being, check out Modus Athletica. Now please enjoy this episode with Mercedes!

Things We Talked about:

• What is like guiding bouldering outside?
• Mercedes Bouldering I & II curricula – safety, warm-ups, climbing, ethics, resting, project tactics, video reviews
• Coaching movements online?
• Some common issues – foot precision, extension, rotate, dynamic movements
• Being intentional is important
• Give people a path to self correct
• Big categories such as do they trust their positions? Their mindsets
• How to manage frustration
• Bridge inside climbing and outside climbing
• Rethink grading
• Movement is movement, think about global movements
• Learn a variety of movements help problem solving outside
• At the end of the day, ask “do you like to climb?”
• Outside climbing tends to be more static and controlled since the risk is higher
• What do outside and inside climbing share in common?
• And More...

https://femaleguidesrequested.com/podcast/ep-31-sof-petros-question-the-establishments/

Show Notes:

Sof’s Links:

• Sof Petros on Instagram
• Climbers of Color

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today we have a young and inspiring guest whose name is Sof Petros. I got to know her a little last summer when I taught an SPI course for the Climbers of Color. She was the assistant Rock Director of the organization and helped me with many tasks. She was thorough, an excellent communicator and her emails were always filled with loads of positive energy and humor.

Sof is an AMGA SPI and a PSIA AASI Certified Alpine Ski instructor. She does rock guiding with Climbers of Color in Washington, Out in the Wild in Oregon, and Flash Foxy in California and teaches skiing in Stevens Pass Washington. She does admirable work in affinity space providing safe and supportive learning environments. To quote her words, she is “amped to join and lead affinity programming that not only brings communities together, but also challenges and questions systems and values of supremacy, domination, and oppression that manifest in climbing spaces, even ‘diverse ones.'”

In this episode, she recalled that her family always liked to play outside. Even though the activities they chose were not “technical recreation,” the sense of connection to nature and the land was very impactful. We of course talked much about affinity programs. Sof shared valuable insights on how we could make the environment more inclusive, which would also help guides manage risks and provide better student experience.

Beyond climbing and skiing, Sof can be found baking lots of bread, crying over just about every dog she sees, making jewelry, taking outdoor naps, eating really good pickles and hot sauces, and trying to make craft cocktails on her truck tailgate. Now let’s dive into this lighthearted yet serious conversation with Sof Petros.

Things We Talked about:

• Sof’s upbringing
• Central park bouldering started her climbing path
• Wearing multiple hats for her career
• Starting guiding in college at Columbia university in New Your City
• In summers guiding long multi-week trips in CO and WY
• What brought Sof to Pacific Northwest
• After college, Sof started a job in Chilean Patagonia and found her love towards ocean
• Why Sof uses the term “technical recreation”?
• How should we define outdoors and outdoorsy?
• How does Sof’s family see her now?
• Camping and backpacking with mom; skiing and climbing with little brother
• Working with and in affinity spaces
• What are the social and emotional risk factors?
• Feedback she got from non-affinity groups after she brought the practices used in affinity space
• Contemplating where she can make the most impact
• How can we make the principals we practice in affinity space more common sense?
• Why is it that hard for changes to happen?
• Sof’s personal experience going through the first BIPOC Guides Development Program hosted by Alpine Ascents
• Inclusive guiding practice
• Is how hard you climb and hard fast you ski important?
• And more…

Show Notes:

Emma’s Links:

• Emma Contaoe on MEC
• Climb Escapes (Website)
• Emma’s Instagram https://www.instagram.com/emmacontaoe/

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. I am your host, Ting Ting. I finally returned from my home country Taiwan and now am delivering this episode in Las Vegas. This episode is about Emma Contaoe, who was highly recommended to me by a listener whose life was impacted by her. I reached out and recorded the beautiful life story of Emma, how she stayed curious and followed her intuition and eventually found she could combine her passions and work into a fulfilling life.

Emma is an avid climber and certified rock climbing instructor in Quebec. She is the founder of Climbing Escapes, where she gives outdoor climbing courses to all types of climbers, as well as offers climbing and yoga retreats. After eight years of teaching, she finds joy and fulfillment through her business by combining her love of climbing instruction and creating a wholesome community.

In this episode, we talked about how she eventually tried rock climbing in Australia, where she found space to strip the constraints of the environment and identity she lived during the first two decades of her life. She then followed this awakening to Nepal and brought all she learned back home in Montreal. Her business was her dream and her mission. To build her business was a slow and steady process. There was fear, imposter syndrome, tears, and grief of her best friend’s passing. She got reaffirmation from classes she taught and from the mutually empowering space she created with other women.

Please enjoy this episode with Emma Contaoe.

Things We Talked about:

• First time climbing, wanted to start at a place where she could be anyone
• Constraints from the native environment
• Transition from “not for me” to fully “embracing the outdoors”
• Start the business not focusing on “nobody like me had done something similar before” but on doing what she loved
• Always following what she is curious about then built the intuition of what felt right
• Solo travel – a 4-year journey
• An encounter with “3-sister guiding services” in Nepal
• Finding a purpose during the repetitive traveling of seeing different places
• Hands on with charity work from building a shelter in after-quake Nepal to finding volunteers for a school project
• Reflection on what’s for her and what’s sustainable
• Early days of Climbing Escapes
• Mission statement of her dream business
• What does the word “retreat” mean to Emma
• Any structure to facilitate the so-called “down time” between climbing and yoga? Or just let the magic happen?
• Proudest moments
• Want the audience to take away
• And more…

Show Notes:

Related resources:

• AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Page
• Spencer Huffman’s Instagram @shuffrocks
• Szu-ting Yi (Ting Ting)’s Instagram @szutingyi
• SPI handbook (2024)
• EP 20 – Everything SPI 01 – Professionalism and Risk Management

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting, and I’m still in my home country Taiwan. Today my dear friend and colleague Spencer Huffman returned for the Everything SPI series. We tried our best to extract and organize important nuggets from our past experiences to help single pitch instructors and whoever wants to enter the field of guiding. In this episode, we focus on Site Selection and Group Management. If you would like to check out our first episode of the series, please visit episode 20 in which we talked about Professionalism and Risk Management.

Both Spencer and I are AMGA certified Rock Guides and SPI Providers. We co-taught an SPI course back in October 2023 and found that our teaching style was quite compatible and complimentary. Therefore, we decided to do this podcast series, Everything SPI, to create supplemental material related to the SPI programs.

Spencer and I both have deep roots in climbing education. We have over 20 years of field instructing experience and are confident that we can provide valuable insights. We also recognize that the field of climbing instruction is dynamic and we can’t possibly know everything. So, if you have any questions, feedback, please reach out to help us improve. Now please enjoy the second episode of Everything SPI with Spencer and Ting Ting.

Things We Talked about:

• How to plan the day
• How to actually run a climbing day
• Client Screening
• Course design
• Case Study
• Understand the sites
• Understand your clients – deliver a compelling experience
• Time Management
• Group Management
• … and more

Show Notes:

Margaret’s links:

• Instagram https://www.instagram.com/margaret_wheeler/
• Meet Margaret Wheeler (AMGA video)
• Among Mountain Guides, This Woman Is a Rarity – Ski Mag
• Why IFMGA-certified guide Margaret Wheeler believes that variety makes a difference in the mountains (backcountrymagazine.com)
• The Ultimate Guide | Dartmouth Alumni Magazine

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting delivering this wonderful new episode from my home country Taiwan. I am very excited about today’s guest, Margaret Wheeler. I still remember how amazed I was years ago, seeing her, very pregnant, teaching technical skills in an AMGA video. After I started this podcast I kept getting requests to have her on the show. I was fortunate to finally steal a couple hours from her busy life!

In the guiding world, Margaret needs little introduction. She is the second U.S. woman to earn the IFMGA mountain guide title. She is an instructor of guide training for the AMGA and serves on its board of directors and as president of the organization. She is involved in avalanche education through her work as an AIARE (American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education) instructor and trainer. Right now Margaret and her husband Matt Farmer split their time between the Wood River Valley Idaho and Europe.

Margaret is a wonderful story teller and her life never has a dull moment. She started chasing her brothers around the ski slopes of New England which led to a stint ski bumming in Chamonix France right after college. She bounced back and forth between the so-called real life and wild adventures and eventually found her happy true identity in mountain guiding. She also shared so much wisdom and philosophy about guiding from years of experience and her analytical approach to problem solving. She provided a viewpoint on guiding as a career, her expectations towards guide education and how the guiding community can help each other navigate through various challenges. Margaret talked specifically about how to make guiding a sustainable career and how to balance that with having a family

Time flew by quickly and I didn’t even get to ask all of my questions. I hope I will soon have a chance to do another follow up interview with her. Listeners please enjoy this fantastic episode and let me know what other questions you might want to ask Margaret next time!

Show Notes:

Julie Ann’s links:

• Instagram @groundingtruth
• Grounding Truth Website: groundingtruth.com
• Julie Ann is a member of the RAD team with Traverse Equipment https://www.traverseequipment.com/julieannholder
• Personal Instagram @julieann.holder

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today our guest is Julie Ann Holder. She was highly recommended by a listener and fellow guide Ian. I was so glad to connect with her and had a wonderful conversation with her.

Julie Ann ‘Julz’ is a Backcountry Mentor, Ski Guide, and Avalanche Educator living in Bellingham, Washington. Two winters ago, she launched Grounding Truth Holistic Guiding: a process-oriented, women-focused, grassroots ski guiding business. As a guide, Julz embodies an attitude of curiosity, wonder, and reverence in wild places. She is dedicated to creating inclusive spaces within outdoor adventures that evoke feelings of radical acceptance and help cultivate more deeply felt experiences.

Julie Ann is truly special. Her love towards snow country and skiing is contagious and her dedication to Grounding Truth is admirable. I don’t consider myself that much of a winter person, but I was curious about why she loved it so much, so I asked her to describe winter for me. I was speechless and when I listened to her words again, I couldn’t help but close my eyes in order to feel the intense beauty. I typically listen to podcasts when I am driving. If you’re like me, please don’t close your eyes when you listen to this episode.

Things We Talked about:

• From Georgia rock to Washington snow
• Learn how to ski as an adult
• Learn to ski and teach ski at the same time
• Myth: Easy to learn hard to master?
• Benefits of learning a sport later in their lives
• How does Julie Ann start guiding?
• Big Sky MT where everything started
• Resort skiing versus backcountry skiing
• Trial and Errors
• Avalanche awareness / how to make decisions -> takes time
• As a guide, thinking about sustainability about a guide’s body
• Grounding Truth founded in 2021
• Light bulb moments triggering Julie Ann to start her mentorship program?
• Use modern powerful tools but also use senses to feel the surroundings to make decisions
• Need to see it in actions before loading more information on the plate
• Intentionally let the course run in an organic way
• Reciprocal relationship with the places
• Since the inception of Grounding Truth, what kind of adjustments did Julie Ann did?
• What were the keepers since the beginning of Grounding Truth?
• The beauty of winter
• Vision for the Grounding Truth program?