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  • Episode #95: María Álvarez

    Episode #95: María Álvarez
    2024/09/13
    María Álvarez is the co-founder, along with Isaac Martínez, of the publisher Novo, the very first publishing house dedicated to gastronomy in Mexico. Maria and Isaac started Novo in 2023 because they saw a lack in the types of books being published about Mexican cuisine, both in Mexico and abroad. The wanted to be a publisher that is more collaborative with other disciplines, more like a milpa. Rather than just a monoculture of corn, they wanted a multicropped garden of designers, photographers and other professionals to help support the vision of the author. In this interview she explains how she moved from the world of art publishing into culinary publishing and is helping shape a community around these niche books about food in Mexico, as well as through their podcast series, Radio Milpa.
    Novo now has published two books. The first is Cocina de Oaxaca, by Alejandro Ruiz, published last year. Ruiz is the chef of Casa Oaxaca, who is one of the godfathers of modern Oaxacan cooking and has helped teach in a generation of cooks at his restaurant Casa Oaxaca. They also just released Estado de Hongos, a book about mushrooms in central Mexico by the Mexican Japanese forager by Nanae Watabe. She supplies mushrooms to lots of the best restaurants in the DF and is at the intersection of all things mushrooms in Mexico and the book reflects that. This October, they will be publishing La República Democrática del Cerdo, by Pedro Reyes, who you might know from the Taco Chronicles on Netflix. You can order them online or find them in bookstores in Mexico, as well as buy some of the books on Amazon in the U.S. or at incredible culinary bookstores like Kitchen Arts & Letters in New York and Now Serving in Los Angeles.

    This world of publishing culinary books in Latin America is really beginning to open up and I couldn’t be happier. I think a healthy publishing environment is one where a lot of different voices and aesthetics are being developed and not just that of a few large international publishers. In the interview we discuss how important the very language being used in a culinary book can be.

    Read more at New Worlder.
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    1 時間 12 分
  • Episode #94: Rodrigo Pacheco

    Episode #94: Rodrigo Pacheco
    2024/08/30
    A lot of chefs say they want to preserve landscapes, but Rodrigo Pacheco of Bocavaldivia in Puerto Cayo on the coast of Ecuador at is actually doing it. He is literally acquiring land and re-wilding it, in the hopes of turning it into the world’s largest biodiverse edible forest.

    I first met the guy about 10 years ago at a conference in Quito. At the time, all the contemporary Ecuadorian chefs were trying to get international attention and get on lists and get famous. Then there was Rodrigo, who could care less about those things. It was still early on this project on a remote beach, but he was already talking about connecting with nature and utilizing biodiversity. He seemed totally out of place. It was still early in the life of Bocavaldivia. The 100 hectares of land he bought, a former pepper farm, was heavily degraded. Much of the surrounding tropical dry forest was cut down. There was little wildlife there. But in a decade, he has turned it into a thriving landscape, which, through the accrual of new land, now reaches up to the cloud forest. I was there earlier in the year and I saw it with my own eyes. He now uses more than 150 different edible plants from this landscape throughout the year on his menu.

    While the heart of Bocavaldivia is a restaurant, where he and his team cook from a rustic wood fired kitchen adapted from native ones, and serve tasting menus alongside nice wines, to call it just a restaurant would be lacking. The experience there involves a journey. Many hours before eating you start to experience the landscape. You traverse them by fishing in the sea and tasting termites off a stick and hiking through the trees. You connect with it before you sit down and eat. And when you do sit down, there isn’t some long, drawn out explanation of what you are eating, because you’ve lived it.

    Lots of other projects that spin out from Bocavaldivia. He has a restaurant in Quito called Foresta. He was on the Netflix cooking show The Final Table. He has created a mini-documentary series with indigenous leaders. He is a Goodwill Ambassador in Ecuador at the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. He started a foundation. He says because he lives in the middle of nowhere that he has a lot of extra time on his hands that most other chefs don’t. It’s funny how the less busy you are sometimes the more you can get done. I’m still trying to figure out how that works.
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    1 時間 4 分
  • Episode #93: Lisa Abend

    Episode #93: Lisa Abend
    2024/08/16
    Lisa Abend is a Copenhagen, Denmark based writer that covers food, travel and all sorts of other topics for publications like Time Magazine, The New York Times and Fool, among others. She is the head of communications for the Copenhagen based non-profit Mad and the author of the 2011 book The Sorcerer's Apprentices: A Season in the Kitchen at Ferran Adrià's elBulli, where she spent a season at the restaurant documenting its team of stagieres and what else goes on behind the kitchen walls. She is one of the most respected voices in the world of gastronomy and it was a real pleasure to be able to speak with her.

    Recently, Lisa launched the Substack newsletter The Unplugged Traveler where she posts about going to destinations in Europe that she has never been before and, totally without any research prior to the trip, experiences them completely offline. That means no looking at her phone or the internet for recommendations or planning. For the most recent post her brother said she should go to Zadar, so she booked a flight there and went without even knowing what country it was in. It’s unlike any travel writing being done anywhere else and there isn’t a better moment for it. Travel, has lost much of its meaning since the advent of the smart phone. Everything is booked in advance. We seem to know everything about a destination before we get there and go armed with lists of recommendations on where to eat and drink and what to do and see. There is no room for surprise or discomfort of any sort. The same stories are being written repeatedly, which is leading to overwhelming swells of tourists in certain cities. We are seeing a backlash to that. Aside of limiting tourists from a destination, what can you do? One thing is to get back to the essence of travel and go to places where you can experience something new, some place where you can have your own experience. I didn’t ask her this but I hope she turns this project into a book one day.
    Lisa lived in Spain when El Bulli was still around, then moved to Copenhagen and got to see Noma’s rise. For a little while, she had another newsletter with some other Copenhagen based writers called Bord, which told in depth stories about the restaurant industry in that city, such as kitchen abuses and stagiares. Anyway, she has watched as those two restaurants, one right after the other, propelled by the oversized influence of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, have changed the conversation around fine dining and cuisine as a whole. We discuss if that will happen again. What will the next big thing be? Maybe it isn’t a fine dining restaurant. Maybe it’s not even a restaurant.

    Read more and find a transcript at New Worlder.
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    1 時間 1 分
  • Episode #92: Gabriela Perdomo

    Episode #92: Gabriela Perdomo
    2024/08/02
    Gabriela Perdomo is the owner of the tortillería and restaurant El Comalote in Antigua, Guatemala. More than just a place to buy tortillas and eat delicious things with corn masa, the almost entirely female run El Comalote is a project that is helping resurrect the links between criollo corn and consumers in urban parts of Guatemala. Like in Mexico, as well as other neighboring countries, the majority of tortillas consumed are from industrial corn. Gaby explains how the technique of making tortillas by hand remains dominant in the country, the choice of corn has changed drastically. There has been a shift away from the more difficult to grow native varieties towards the varieties that all look the same, grow extremely fast and produce massive quantities. However, these are less nutritious and often need pesticides and other chemicals to survive.
    Since El Comalote opened in 2021, they have helped open the eyes of urban consumers and chefs in the country to the flavor of heirloom corn. I’ve been there a couple of times now and tasting these thick, brightly colored tortillas – red, green, orange, blue, black – shows how perfect of a food a great tortilla can be. You really don’t need much else. They also make other masa derived foods like tamales, cambrayes, chicha, chuchitos. and more. What’s important from this interview is to understand how Gaby has been able to do this. More than just getting the very best corn and paying them the highest price, she has listened to the indigenous farmers and their communities that she works with to try to understand their needs and concerns.

    Read more at New Worlder.
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    1 時間 15 分
  • Episode #91: Richard McColl

    Episode #91: Richard McColl
    2024/07/19
    Richard McColl is a British Canadian journalist, podcaster and hotel owner based in Bogotá and Mompós, Colombia. I’ve known Richard for at least a decade. I first knew of him from his work as a fellow foreign correspondent covering subjects all around Latin America, writing for international publications. In 2013, we met in person when I was writing for a story about Mompós for The New York Times. It’s one of my favorite stories I ever written for The Times because Mompós is such a special place. It’s this stunning 500-year-old colonial city on an island in the Magdalena River that was once a major port but was then mostly forgotten as that part of the river stilted up and war cut it off from society. It’s a strange, kind of mystical place with so much history and so many stories and quirky characters. It’s a place that was a big inspiration for Gabriel Garcia Marquez, the Nobel Prize winning author and you can feel the imagery from his books everywhere there. Richard’s wife has family there and he was enchanted by it and ended up buying two of these colonial houses, which he turned into small hotels, La Casa Amarilla and San Rafael. We talk a lot about Mompós and its ghosts and how it’s much easier to reach than when I went there and had to take a 10-hour ride in a truck from Cartagena.

    While I was in Mompós he asked me if I wanted to be on a podcast he just launched, called Colombia Calling, where he interviews all kinds of subjects about Colombia, in English. This was in 2013, and it was probably one of the original podcasts anywhere in Latin America, and honestly, I hadn’t even listened to a podcast at that time. It’s still going and has now recorded more than 500 episodes. Juli was on a recent episode and they talk a lot about Colombian food and it’s a great listen.

    Richard also runs the Latin News Podcast and he recently started a small publishing company. They are books in English, about Colombia, and includes titles such as Better than Cocaine: Learning to grow coffee, and live, in Colombia, by the writer Barry Max Wills, and Richard has two books forthcoming, a general guide to politics, history and culture called Colombia at a Crossroads, and The Mompós Project, about his life in that incredible place and the stories he has gathered and witnessed. Anyway, it was great to catch up with Richard after all these years.
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    1 時間 18 分
  • Episode #90: Pablo Díaz

    Episode #90: Pablo Díaz
    2024/07/05
    Pablo Díaz is the chef and owner of the restaurants Mercado 24 and Dora La Tostadora in Guatemala City, Guatemala. His restaurants have never been about tasting menus or getting rankings but serving good food using the best ingredients at fairly reasonable prices. He has been one of the driving forces in Guatemala’s modern culinary movement, helping small farmers and artisan fishermen connect with restaurants in the city in a fair way, while also changing the perception of diners of the quality of local ingredients.

    I first met Pablo in 2018 in Guate. It was my first time back in the country in years and it was just a quick stopover for a few days and it opened my eyes to how much was going on there at every level, from street food and markets to fine dining restaurants. I went with Diego Telles of the wonderful fine dining restaurant Flor de Lis on an intense whirlwind tour around the city and there was one very unlikely restaurant that stood out called Dora La Tostadora. It was a tostada shop, set in an old shoe store. I ended up writing about it for The New York Times and it was maybe one of my favorite restaurant stories I ever wrote there.

    There were just a couple of sidewalk seats and a sort of thrown together interior. “Inside the former shoe store are just a few wooden tables and a two-stool counter that’s lined with a dozen or so bottles of different hot sauces,” I wrote. “The décor has a haphazard, thrown-together feel: Christmas lights, a poster of the ruins of Tikal on the wall, a cartoon cutout of Dora the Explorer, the tiny restaurant’s namesake.”

    The restaurant began as a pop-up months before while his market driven restaurant Mercado 24 was in the process of moving locations and his staff still needed a job. I absolutely love tostadas, maybe even more than tacos, and these were some of the best I ever had. They had the absolutely right combination and proportions of proteins like fish and beef tongue with different herbs, oils and spices on a crispy tortilla. They moved to a larger location, and more recently into an even larger location, but it began with such a simple idea that makes so much sense, as does Mercado 24. Pablo’s restaurants are creative and cool, but they aren’t flashy. There are no tasting menus and he’s not doing what he does for international appeal. He has been doing it for his community and after 10 years you can see the impact it has had.

    READ MORE AT NEW WORLDER.
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    1 時間 10 分
  • Episode #89: Matthias Ingelmann

    Episode #89: Matthias Ingelmann
    2024/06/21
    Matthias Ingelmann is the bar manager of Kol Mezcaleria and Kol Restaurant in London England. Matthias is German born and has worked in a lot of great bars around Europe, but once he started drinking mezcal he went down the rabbit hole with agave spirits, as many of us do. He has now built one of the UK's largest mezcal collections at Kol Mezcaleria and is continually expanding that collection as Kol expands. They just announced another restaurant with a cocktail heavy menu, called Fonda, which will open later in the year.

    Like at Kol the restaurant, there is a strict policy of only importing a few basic ingredients like corn, chocolate and dried chiles. So there are no limes to use in cocktails. No grapefruit juice for palomas. He talks about how he started importing verjus, unfermented grape juice, as one of the ingredients to provide the acidity in some drinks. And how he uses seasonal herbs like pineapple weed to bring tropical flavors into the bar. We also talk about Kol’s partnership with the Sin Gusano project in Mexico, which is allowing them to work directly with several small producers for their own line of 6 different agave spirits from different parts of Mexico, to be used in the bar and sold at the bar nut not commercially.

    There is a lot going on with mezcal as it becomes more mainstream that you, the consumer, should be aware about. Commercial brands are coming in and locking small distillers into contracts, they are monocropping espadin all over Oaxaca and they are putting pressure to try to produce more and more mezcal in unsustainable ways. It’s not at tequila levels yet. There are no Kardashians selling mezcal. At the rate mezcal is increasing in popularity we are not that far off. That’s why it’s extremely important if you are a bartender to buy mezcal from sources that champion small producers and educate your clientele.

    Read more at New Worlder.
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    1 時間 7 分
  • Episode 88: Nando Chang

    Episode 88: Nando Chang
    2024/06/07
    Nando Chang was born in Chiclayo, Peru and is the chef of Itamae AO, a Nikkei restaurant in Miami, Florida. It is the reincarnation of Itamae, the beloved Nikkei restaurant that began as a family food hall stall and later restaurant in Miami’s Design District. Nando’s sister, Valerie Chang, who I interviewed on this podcast more than a year ago, opened Maty’s, a Peruvian restaurant in Midtown Miami in 2023, and it has gone on to be nominated for pretty much every major media award for U.S. restaurants since then. The plan from the beginning, however, was to install a more intimate version of Itamae in an adjacent space.

    The new Itamae, Itamae AO, is tasting menu only. Nando talks about why he won’t call it an omakase, his thoughts about fish butchery, and how he got into fish aging, but also how he understands its limitations. We also discuss Nando’s rap career, which included an album called Ceviche, with a track titled Sushi Chef, and how it’s still very much a part of his life. He talks about how he was influenced by other chefs cooking Nikkei food, such as Llama Inn and Llama San’s Erik Ramirez in New York, and getting to know Maido’s Mitsuharu Tsumura in Lima and how it helped him confirm many of his views about Nikkei food and where it is going.

    I have probably said this before but there’s often this idea of Nikkei food when it gets exported abroad that it is just ceviche and sushi on a menu together. That’s a very limited view of this style of cooking, which, to me, is much more about freedom than limitations. The Chang family, who are Chinese-Peruvian by the way, have understood this very well since they started opening restaurants in Miami. Nando talks a lot about not just doing what everyone else is doing, but doing things that make sense to him. I think it’s a good example to follow for other Peruvian chefs, or any chef trying to find their voice in the kitchen.

    READ MORE AT NEW WORLDER.
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    1 時間 37 分